If you’ve heard bakuchiol described as a “plant-based retinol,” you’re not alone. The nickname is catchy, but here’s the better headline: bakuchiol is its own ingredient with retinol-like benefits, often with fewer side effects and better tolerability for sensitive skin. Below, we unpack what bakuchiol is, how it works, what the science actually shows, and how to build it into a routine that makes sense for real life.
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol (pronounced buh-koo-chee-ol) is a meroterpene phenol originally isolated from Psoralea corylifolia (also called babchi) and found in a few other plants. It isn’t a vitamin A derivative and isn’t structurally related to retinoids, yet lab work shows it can influence many of the same skin pathways linked to visible aging.
The “retinol-like” part without being retinol
In gene-expression studies on skin models and fibroblasts, bakuchiol and retinol produced strikingly similar expression patterns for numerous skin-health genes (including several collagen-related markers). That mechanistic overlap helps explain why the ingredient can deliver retinol-adjacent results even though it’s a completely different molecule.
What the clinical evidence says
Anti-aging: lines, wrinkles, and tone
One of the most-referenced trials compared 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily to 0.5% retinol nightly over 12 weeks. Both groups showed significant improvements in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with bakuchiol users reporting less stinging and scaling. A big deal for those who struggle with retinoid irritation.
Earlier work also found bakuchiol could boost collagen-related markers and improve overall photodamage in a 12-week user study, supporting its anti-aging positioning.
Acne and post-breakout marks
Bakuchiol has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial activity and has been studied for acne. In a 2021 clinical study, a bakuchiol cream (UP256) used as monotherapy improved mild to moderate acne and also helped post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), notably relevant for those concerned about lingering marks after breakouts.
Systematic reviews echo these findings, describing bakuchiol as a retinol alternative with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties, while calling for more high-quality trials (always a fair ask in skincare research).
Hyperpigmentation: what to expect
Beyond the tone benefits seen in the anti-aging trial, bakuchiol is being actively studied for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation specifically. Ongoing clinical-trial activity reflects growing interest in its melanin-modulating potential, though full results are still forthcoming.
Tolerability and photosensitivity
A comprehensive review reports good tolerability for bakuchiol formulations and no signal of photosensitivity across the summarized studies, one reason many people are comfortable using it during the day. That said, sunscreen remains non-negotiable for any brightening or anti-aging routine.
Why bakuchiol is easier to live with
Daytime-friendly and stable
Bakuchiol is photostable and has demonstrated stability in cosmetic matrices under thermal and photolytic conditions. In plain English: it holds up nicely in real-world product formats and doesn’t require the same level of light-avoidance as traditional retinoids. That opens the door to day and night use if your skin likes it.
Sensitive-skin appeal
In the head-to-head clinical trial, bakuchiol matched retinol’s improvements with fewer irritation reports. For those who’ve tried retinol and ended up red and flaky, bakuchiol can be a practical way to pursue similar outcomes with a milder feel.
Bakuchiol benefits at a glance
- Smoother-looking fine lines and wrinkles: Supported by a 12-week randomized trial vs. retinol, with a better comfort profile.
- More even tone: Improvements in hyperpigmentation documented in clinical work, with ongoing trials exploring bakuchiol for PIH.
- Acne support: Evidence of benefit for mild-to-moderate acne and post-breakout marks, likely via anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects.
- Good tolerability for sensitive skin: Reviews summarizing multiple studies note generally strong tolerability with no photosensitivity signal reported.
- Stable in formulas: Demonstrated stability in cosmetic matrices and under light/heat testing conditions
Bakuchiol vs. retinol: how to choose
They’re different molecules. Retinoids (like retinol and tretinoin) are vitamin A derivatives with deep literature and prescription-strength options. Bakuchiol is not a vitamin A derivative, but it modulates many of the same skin pathways, which is why results can look similar in practice.
Pick bakuchiol if you want retinol-like benefits with fewer classic retinoid side effects, or you’ve tapped out on retinoids because of irritation. It’s also attractive if you prefer a daytime-friendly routine.
Pick retinoids if your dermatologist recommends them for specific concerns and you can tolerate them. Tretinoin in particular has a long track record and may be more potent for some goals. Many people use both in a week, just build up slowly and listen to your skin.
Mechanistically, lab data even hint that bakuchiol and retinol could be complementary rather than adversarial, though this needs stronger in-vivo confirmation before we draw hard rules.
How to use bakuchiol (routine builder)
Concentration
Most clinical work uses 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily in the retinol comparison study). Some leave-on moisturizers and serums use ~1% in sensitive-skin panels. If you’re new to the ingredient, start with 0.5–1% in a well-formulated product.
Frequency
Because it’s comfortable and photostable, many people apply bakuchiol once or twice daily. If you’re pairing it with other actives, once daily is a fine starting point.
Layering tips
- AM: Cleanser → vitamin C (optional) → bakuchiol serum → moisturizer → SPF 30+
-
PM: Cleanser → bakuchiol serum → peptide or ceramide moisturizer
If you also use strong exfoliating acids or a retinoid, alternate nights and patch test first to learn your skin’s limits.
Who it’s great for
- Sensitive or reactive skin that struggles with traditional retinoids
- Combination or oily skin needing both clarity and tone support
- Melanin-rich skin concerned about PIH after acne (emerging area with promising signals)
Pregnancy and nursing
Because bakuchiol is not a retinoid, many brands position it as a gentler option. Still, clinical safety data in pregnancy and lactation are limited. If you’re pregnant or nursing, the safest move is to check with your healthcare provider.
What results to expect (and when)
Set your timeline around 8–12 weeks for visible changes in texture and tone, matching the clinical trial cadence. Acne benefits may appear sooner, but PIH and fine lines tend to follow that two-to-three-month window. Consistency and sunscreen are the multipliers here.
Common questions
Is bakuchiol good for daytime use?
Yes. It’s photostable, and reviews report no photosensitivity signal across the summarized studies. Always pair with daily sunscreen for best results.
Can I use bakuchiol with vitamin C, niacinamide, or peptides?
Yes. There’s no evidence of ingredient conflicts with those categories. Many successful routines pair bakuchiol with barrier-supportive moisturizers and brightening antioxidants.
Can bakuchiol replace prescription retinoids?
Not necessarily. It’s a strong option for retinol-like benefits with better comfort, but prescription retinoids can address certain concerns more directly for some users. Your dermatologist can help you prioritize.
Does bakuchiol purge the skin?
“Purging” is most associated with fast cell-turnover actives like retinoids. Bakuchiol is generally well tolerated; if irritation does occur, it’s usually mild. Introduce gradually if your skin is reactive.
How bakuchiol supports different skin goals
- Firmness & fine lines: Encourages retinol-like gene expression tied to collagen support, with clinical improvements by week 12.
- Uneven tone: Improvements in hyperpigmentation have been measured, with specific studies underway for PIH.
- Clarity: Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial actions make it useful for acne-prone skin, with clinical data to back it up.
- Consistency: Stable in real-world cosmetics and suitable for year-round use, including summer.
How to shop for a bakuchiol product (checklist)
- Support cast: Pairing with peptides, vitamin C, and barrier-loving emollients can round out results.
- Texture fit: Serums are easy to layer; moisturizers can simplify routines if you prefer fewer steps.
- Packaging matters: Opaque, air-restrictive packaging helps protect active ingredients from light and air.
The Say Hooray Skincare take
We love bakuchiol for sensitive, results-oriented routines. It’s why we feature it in our Daily Renewal Serum alongside complementary actives like peptides and vitamin C. If your skin runs reactive or you’re easing into an anti-aging routine, it’s a smart starting point that plays nicely morning and night.
How to Use Bakuchiol (Step-by-Step, for Every Skin Type)
Bakuchiol is flexible and easy to live with. Use this guide to dial in the right amount, frequency, and layering for your routine so you actually see results without playing skincare roulette.
1) Start with the right format and amount
- Serum: The most common and easiest to layer. Use 2–3 drops for face, 1–2 more for neck and chest.
- Moisturizer with bakuchiol: Use your usual nickel-size amount.
2) Patch test once, reap calm skin later
Apply a small amount along the jawline or behind the ear once daily for 3 days. If you don’t notice stinging, hives, or unusual redness, you’re cleared to proceed.
3) Build up the frequency (the simple ramp plan)
- Week 1: 3 nights per week
- Week 2: 5 nights per week
- Week 3+: Daily use is fine for most, and many people go twice daily once skin is happy
If your skin gets tight or flaky, drop back to the previous step for a week, then try advancing again.
4) Layer in the right order
Bakuchiol plays nicely with others. The main rule is thinnest to thickest.
- Water-based serums first, bakuchiol next, moisturizer last, then SPF in the morning.
- If your bakuchiol is in an oil or cream base, use it after watery serums but before heavier creams or oils.
5) Morning vs. night
- Morning: Cleanser → antioxidant (optional) → bakuchiol → moisturizer → SPF 30+
- Night: Cleanser → bakuchiol → barrier-supportive moisturizer (ceramides, squalane, or peptides)
Because bakuchiol is photostable, daytime use is fine. Sunscreen is still non-negotiable if you want any brightening or smoothing to last.
Pairing Bakuchiol with Other Actives
Vitamin C: A great AM duo for tone and environmental defense. Apply vitamin C first, bakuchiol second.
Niacinamide: Easy, calming partner for oil control and barrier support. Use AM or PM.
AHAs/BHAs (glycolic, lactic, salicylic):
- If you’re sensitive, alternate nights.
- If you’re resilient, you can apply acids, wait 5–10 minutes, then bakuchiol. Listen to your skin.
Retinol or prescription retinoids:
- You don’t need both on the same night. For comfort, alternate: retinoid on Mon/Wed/Fri, bakuchiol on the others.
- If you’re retinoid-intolerant, bakuchiol can be your mainstay.
Benzoyl peroxide: Compatible for many, but the combo can feel dry. Use a lightweight moisturizer and start slow.
Exfoliating masks or peels: Keep these to 1–2 times weekly and use bakuchiol on the next night rather than the same night.
Skin-Type Playbooks
Sensitive, easily flushed, or reactive
- Use bakuchiol every other night for two weeks.
- Moisturizer sandwich: light moisturizer → bakuchiol → another thin layer of moisturizer.
- Skip strong acids on bakuchiol nights.
Oily or acne-prone
- Day: niacinamide or vitamin C → bakuchiol → SPF
- Night: bakuchiol most nights; on 2–3 nights weekly, use a BHA toner, then bakuchiol.
- Spot treatments can go on after bakuchiol if needed.
Dry or mature
- Apply hydrating serum (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) → bakuchiol → ceramide or peptide cream.
- Consider twice-daily bakuchiol once comfortable.
Darker skin tones concerned with post-breakout marks
- Consistent daily SPF is your MVP.
- Pair AM bakuchiol with vitamin C or niacinamide, then PM bakuchiol after cleansing.
- Keep exfoliation gentle and steady rather than aggressive.
Troubleshooting and Pro Tips
Seeing tiny flakes or feeling tight?
Use less product, add a richer moisturizer, and cut usage to every other day for a week.
Pilling under sunscreen or makeup?
You’re likely using too much or layering too quickly. Use 2–3 drops, let it absorb for 60 seconds, then proceed.
No results yet?
Give it 8–12 weeks of consistent use. Take a before photo in good light now and compare at week 4, 8, and 12.
Where does eye care fit?
Most can take bakuchiol to the orbital bone. Avoid the waterline. If you’re sensitive, keep it to evenings and seal with a gentle eye cream.
Body care for neck, chest, and hands
Extend 1–2 extra drops to neck and chest nightly. For hands, apply before your hand cream in the evening.
Storage
Keep the bottle capped tightly and away from heat and direct sun. Opaque or amber packaging is ideal.
Safety Notes
- Bakuchiol isn’t a retinoid, but if you’re pregnant or nursing, it’s still a good idea to check with your healthcare provider before introducing new actives.
- Skip use on broken or compromised skin and pause if you experience persistent burning or hives.
- Always finish your morning routine with broad-spectrum SPF 30+.
How to Use Say Hooray’s Daily Renewal Serum
- After cleansing, apply 2–3 drops to dry skin.
Give it about a minute to sink in, then follow with moisturizer. - Morning routines should end with SPF 30+.
- New to actives? Start every other night for a week, then move to daily if skin feels good.
Pairing Bakuchiol with Our Hypochlorous Acid (HOCl) Spray & Calming Serum
Bakuchiol and HOCl make a great “calm + correct” duo. HOCl helps keep skin fresh and comfortable, while bakuchiol works on texture, tone, and fine lines. Here’s exactly how to layer them for the best results.
The simple order
Cleanser → HOCl → Bakuchiol → Moisturizer → SPF (AM)
- HOCl Daily Facial Spray: Use as your first leave-on step after cleansing. Mist evenly, let it air-dry for 20–30 seconds, then move on.
- Calming Serum (0.02% HOCl): If you prefer a serum texture, apply a thin layer after cleansing. Give it 30–60 seconds to settle before bakuchiol.
Key takeaways
- Bakuchiol is not retinol, but it influences many of the same skin pathways and delivers comparable anti-aging outcomes in a head-to-head cosmetic trial, with fewer reports of irritation.
- It brings anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and tone-evening benefits, with supportive clinical data for acne and encouraging activity for PIH.
- It’s photostable and generally well tolerated, making it easier to use consistently, often the biggest factor behind real-world results.
- Expect visible improvements in 8–12 weeks, and keep sunscreen in the mix to lock in gains.
References
- Dhaliwal S. et al. Br J Dermatol 2019: randomized, double-blind trial comparing 0.5% bakuchiol to 0.5% retinol. (PubMed)
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Int J Cosmet Sci 2014: gene-expression work showing retinol-like activity in vitro and clinical pilot data. (PubMed)
- Brownell L. et al. J Drugs Dermatol 2021: bakuchiol cream improved mild-to-moderate acne and PIH. (PubMed)
- Park SJH. et al. Journal of Integrative Dermatology 2024: comprehensive review of topical bakuchiol (efficacy, safety, tolerability). (Journal of Integrative Dermatology)
- Kurpet K., Chwatko G. Scientific Reports 2023: validated HPLC method and stability of bakuchiol under thermal/photolytic conditions in cosmetics.
